The month of November

Photo: Doorknob.

There is something uneventful and slow about this time of year. The air is biting but not cold enough for teeth to clench. Browning leaves clutch onto the emaciated branches refusing to let the wind take them on a little tango. Although I have stopped counting my age, it is hard not to feel uneasy around this month with the ominous notion of my teenage years fleeting away before I could make a statement in this world.

Yes, age is a vexing perception. Inevitably.





But. To stack up my list of excuses, November is also the time when I cut myself some (even more) slack, spoiling myself
a littlehere and there. Hence, the restaurant trips.

I chose No 9 Park for multiple reasons. Barbara Lynch is one of the few celebrated female chefs in Boston. In the male-dominating culinary industry, it takes a woman who can both stand the heat and rule the bunch to make it. After hearing rave reviews about the restaurant, I booked the reservation hoping it can top my last experience at Clio.



Predictably, I ordered the appetizer that brought this place to fame - Prune Stuffed Gnocchi w/ foie gras, toasted almonds, Vin Santo (USD 19)- dubbed The best dish in Boston by the Boston Magazine. I can understand how the gnocchi can woo the conventional taste buds. The most prominent thing that earned this dish its recognition is probably the impeccable balance of flavor and texture. The mild sweetness of the prune brought out the indulging creaminess of the gnocchi paste. Also, foie gras makes everything taste better.

For the main course, the waiter suggested the Peking Duck w/ edamame, bok choy, sesame (USD 39). I foolishly turned it down because of the chinese-takeout-inspired description - which was a stupendous mistake because after taking a bite from one of my dining companions, that turned out to be the best bite I had that night. The confit was perfectly cooked and spiced: insatiably tender flesh oozing in the natural sweetness of ducking goodness. The second hype on the entre menu, as suggested, is the Milk Fed Porcelet w/ caramelized endives, choucroute, apple which I decided to venture on. Wrong choice. I fail to fathom how such travesty can creep its way into the menu of a fine dining restaurant. Surely, the presentation is exquisite, if only the taste can live up to its appearance and without the looming reminiscence of college dining hall food. All I could remember after choking on the plate was the haunt of over-cured pork sausage.


No party ends without the dessert. I can't think of a better way to end the meal with Carrot Biscuit Coulant w/ Miso glace, roasted White Chocolate (USD 12). It is like pastry heaven. The warm biscuit, once touched, let out an ethereal fragrance of freshly baked concoction. The carrot sauce that comes with it, however, was over spiced and distracting.


The other dessert, Oblong Black Sesame parfait w/ cardamom chocolate sorbet was pleasant. Texture wise, I enjoyed how gracious the smooth dark ganache embraces the delicate sesame mousse. The sesame flavor for me was too strong a medicinal.

In a nutshell, I had a good time dining at No. 9 Park. Despite occasional bumps that are best described as - not my cup of tea, there are sparks in almost every bite that make this place truly deserving of its fame.


Ratings:

Food: 2
Service: Professional. However, the waiter kept refilling our plates with bread thus left us too full for the next course. 2
Ambiance: Cozy and unpretentious. 2
Value: $ 65 prix fixe + drinks + service fee + tax rounded up to $ 90/person. An understandable price for a restaurant of its rank but not of its quality. I'll give a 1.5.