Wild, wild East

Admittedly, my first visit to Bobby Chinn back in 2006 marked my attention to the fine dining scene in Hanoi. I was intensely engrossed in the realm ever since. For years to come, Bobby Chinn had been my utmost role model. In fact, one my proudest achievements is getting to work in his kitchen – which at that time was considered to be the stepping stone towards the many chapters of haute cuisine wisdom.

I admired Bobby Chinn, maybe I still do, but less as a chef and more as a personality. He blends his charm into every nooks and crannies of his restaurant. I guess it it the unprecedented nuance of a well-crafted ambiance that was made this place a success. The food, to be honest, not so much.

By ‘well-crafted’ I meant that this place is very much precisely taken care of. From the moment I set foot into the restaurant, I was greeted by trails of rose petals. Back then the place didn’t have as much exposure as now so the wait at the bar wasn’t mandatory. Inside displayed old temple interior (attempt to evoke serenity, maybe?), hanging silk drapes and dry flowers. The walls exhibited works of contemporary Vietnamese artists – a very efficient way to add class and artsiness to the place. Music is tastefully selected, Bob Marley and Matthew Shafer was played during my stay. Everything else from the witty menu to the petals inside the toilet shows how tasteful and meticulously designed this place is – all touches provided decent social lubricants as one’s conversation may start with “have you gone to the loo?”.


The amuse bouche is an interesting part of the dining experience here. Every once in a while, if you’re lucky (when there’re enough salmon bones left-over to scrape off the flesh), the chef’s complimentary dish – Salmon tartare in truffle oil wrapped in jícama – may be the best thing you have that night. The salmon, perfectly marinated and generously soaked in truffle oil, is wrapped in a salami-thin slice of fresh-crunchy yam. It is pure beauty. Other times, it would be random bits and pieces like teeny crab-cake on a clam shell or pre-dessert freebie, Chocolate mousse in dark chocolate taco, which I thought was better than some of the main dessert itself.

Like the eminent (and insanely overpriced) Grapes in Pitaschio crusted Goat Cheese (USD 8 for 3 grapes) that made Bobby Chinn’s name, the Pan Roasted Salmon on Wasabi Mashed Potatoes, Vegetables, Ginger Demi Glace (USD 20) is undoubtedly worthy of its reputation. Of course, Bobby Chinn himself knew the hook is in the spicy and creamy side dish as he mentioned in his book “Wild wild east” that it was constructed out of pure fortuity when some wasabi got mixed up in his potatoes. Err, riiiight.


Unlike his other very overrated signature dishes (ahem, Smoked Zealand Rack of Lamb w/ Apple Risotto, Red Wine Lamb Jus Reduction – USD 30, ahem), his less exposed Blackened Barramundi on Braised Banana Blossoms with a Turmeric Balsamic Vinaigrette (USD 17) is a hidden gem. Original plate décor of balsamic patterns and turmeric dots, coated in a crunchy flavorful layer of cumin. It makes a very decent, fun eat. Better than most of other pricey options.



My personal favorite is probably the Green Tea Smoked Duck w/ Black Sticky Rice, Baby Bok Choy & Pomegranate Jus (USD 20). The broth is duck bones stewed for 2 days, duck perfectly cooked, sliced and presented. The rice has exotic textures and flavors that one doesn’t experience with run-on-the-mill white rice. Overall, the only dish that I thought was worth its price.

I learnt to blow-torch my first crème brulee in the Bobby Chinn kitchen, and he did use real vanilla beans in the cream. On the other hand, the sinful Molten Chocolate Cake is very simply made with even simpler ingredients. But hey, who says good food has to be costly made, as long as the product is not so overcharged.


Food:1
Service 1. Wait staff didn’t know the menu well.
Ambiance: 3
Value: 0. An NYC price tag on a Hanoi standard.